Scottsdale hotels

While Palm Springs may be one of the most popular destinations for design in the West, there’s a good case to be made for Scottsdale. Hotel Valley Ho is a mid-century retreat to rival any swanky Palm Springs getaway. Originally a hideaway for celebrities, the architectural marvel opened in 1956 and is one of the best hotels in Scottsdale for design lovers. Every room offers floor-to-ceiling windows leading to either a private patio or balcony, while wide-open studios and chic tower suites have living rooms and walk-in closets. Relax by the circular pool with its turquoise lounge chairs and umbrellas, and make sure to order a dirty martini in the hotel’s main restaurant and bar, ZuZu, which specializes in shareable plates. Located in downtown Scottsdale, the hotel is close to the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art, while Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and studio, the UNESCO-protected Taliesin West, is another must-visit.

If you appreciate mid-century design as much as I do, you’ll love Mountain Shadows Resort. Originally built in the 1950s, it fell into disrepair and had to be demolished. The current owners rebuilt it in 2017, with architects creating clean-lined structures that pay homage to the original site and complement the arid landscape. Now it’s one of the best hotels in Scottsdale, and the most beautifully designed. Guestrooms feature bold Southwestern-print rugs and floor-to-ceiling windows framing views of emerald golf course greens and Camelback Mountain (the hotel’s name is a nod to the shadows the mountain casts on the property). There’s a first-class fitness center, while the hotel’s two 75-foot pools, connected by an overwater walkway, are as inviting for lap swimming as for relaxing with a cold drink. If it isn’t too sweltering, hike Camelback Mountain. The Echo Canyon Trail, with its large boulders and handrails, makes for a fun scramble.

The Spanish Colonial architecture of the Royal Palms Resort and Spa, built by wealthy industrialist Delos Cooke in the 1920s, transports guests to another time and place. When I stayed here, I loved how they used lights to illuminate Camelback Mountain, just behind the hotel. The lush grounds, with their fountains and bougainvillea shrubs, make this feel like a real desert oasis. Consistently ranked among the top-rated hotels in Scottsdale, the Royal Palms has 119 guestrooms with European furniture and private outdoor spaces. Each one recalls the property’s past as a private estate, but have been brought up to date with high-tech features. The Mediterranean restaurant T. Cooks, which has two outdoor patios lit by candles in the evening, is Scottsdale’s most romantic dinner destination. Cooke originally built the home as a wellness retreat for his wife, and the spa offers memorable treatments, such as the desert sage and salt stone massage.